Monday, January 14, 2013

Sam Weber Interviews Dan Dos Santos



Illustrator, Sam Weber came to visit me at my home in Connecticut this past weekend. While he was here, we went to the Yale Museum (Where we saw some amazing works by E.A. Abbey, and Gerome), painted a bit together, and got to visit some other local artists, including my long-time mentor, Steven Stroud.








Same Weber, Steven Stroud, and Dan dos Santos

Sam also decided to interview me, which prompted a rather lengthy discussion about the pros and cons of the illustration industry and why it is that we love, and hate, it so much.



You can listen to that interview right here:







You can download the interview HERE

Or subscribe to Sam's amazing show on iTunes, HERE

Woodwork


-By Arnie Fenner







IDW recently published a US edition of the catalogue that accompanied the 2010 Wally Wood museum retrospective in De Palma, Spain...and it's a doozy. Woodwork: Wallace Wood 1927-1981 is easily the best book ever produced about the influential comics artist and illustrator. Beloved for his intricate drawings for EC Comics in the 1950s and for his more graphic stories for Marvel, Warren, and Tower, Wood was also a pioneer in self-publishing and gave a number of young artists working as his assistance their first professional work. Besides comics he also created trading cards (he drew the lay-outs for many of the Mars Attacks cards that Norman Saunders painted), advertising art, magazine illustrations, and book covers (Wood drew Conan nearly ten years before Frazetta got his his crack at the character).







Wally Wood's story is sobering and, I guess, something of a cautionary tale. Despite being widely respected by his peers and extremely popular among fans, he struggled financially—and personally, physically, and, in the last decade of his life, creatively. Harvey Kurtzman said, "Wally had a tension in him, an intensity that he locked away in an internal steam boiler. I think it ate away his insides, and the work really used him up. I think he delivered some of the finest work that was ever drawn, and I think it's to his credit that he put so much intensity into his work at great sacrifice to himself." Wood commited suicide in 1981.



This book is a gorgeous tribute to one of the true visionaries of our field. And what made Wallace Wood so great? Well, take a look





















Friday, January 11, 2013

Drawing Jack



Living Lines Library has updated their site with a lot of new work, including concept art from the DreamWorks film 'Rise of the Guardians'. There, you can see a lot character concepts, as well as color keys and storyboards.



I really enjoy seeing all the different styles they could have gone with for the character Jack Frost. It seems to me like the alternate concepts would have resulted in a completely different film.













DreamWorks has also produced some really cool 'how to draw' videos, which you can find on Youtube. The videos are drawn and narrated by actual concept designers for the film. Each video depicts a different character, and is narrated by a different artist. Again, it's really wonderful to see how much variation there is in their styles, all the while maintaining the 'essence' of the character.







Other videos in the series can be found here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6hQsX26ezk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mmIFKH9EZY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_ezZ2_GxEU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcZnBilzpOw

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Funny pictures


                                                                    By Petar
Meseldzija





In the
nineties, I was doing posters for Verkerke Reproductions, a Dutch poster
company  which was at that time one of
the biggest in the world. They had offices all around the world. In 1998, just
a few years before the collapse of the poster market and the Verkerke’s
subsequent bankruptcy, they commissioned me to do three paintings that were
supposed to be given as awards to the heads of the most successful Verkerke
offices in three different countries. The only two things I had to pay
attention to were that each painting had its own title that referred to the
specific achievement , and that the paintings had to be funny.



So, I came
up with these three pictures. The editors were satisfied and the originals were
given to the winners. The pictures have never been published as posters and
this is the first time that I show them on the web. The paintings were done in
watercolor. Although I did not use any kind of reference while creating them,
it is quite obvious that good old Norman Rockwell was in the back of my mind.
















 

Painting Eyes


-By Tim Bruckner



To help eye placement, try and paint in the eye opposite your dominant hand first. If you’re left-handed, paint in the right eye first; if you’re right-handed, paint in the left eye first. This method helps overcome a visual bias and makes it easier to match your dominant side to an established eye direction. If you’re using reference, you’ll have a pretty good idea where the iris places in the eye and how much of it is framed by the eyelids, top or bottom or both. If this is a character of your own invention, reference is still a good place to start. Do a Web search for a person or thing that represents what you want your character’s eyes to look like, and use that reference as a guide.



First, we paint in the white of the eyes. The white of a real, human eye is actually more of an off-white, but working on a small scale, unless you’re going for a particular effect, you’ll want the white of the eye to be truly white, to help the iris read clearly. If you’re working on a larger-scale figure (1/6 or larger), then you might want to think about adding a touch of grey or grayed-yellow. Now, it's time to position the iris. To start, it may be a good idea to lightly draw in the irises with a pencil. You can do this on the primed resin, before you paint the white in, and the pencil line will faintly show through the white paint. You can also draw it on after you’ve painted in the white, but be careful not to scratch off the primer or the paint when you're drawing.



A simple but effective way to paint in the iris and pupil goes like this: Establish the darkest part of the iris first. That will be the ring that runs the perimeter of the iris and the shadow under the upper lid. For our example, we’ll use a blue eye to demonstrate our method, but it will work with any iris color combination. So we'll paint the entire iris using a middle blue color with just a touch of white.







Now we’re going to add more white to that middle blue, to bring the color up lighter by several shades. The color shouldn’t be too light, but light enough for there to be a noticeable contrast between it and the first middle blue color. We’re now going to paint in this lighter shade, leaving a ring of darker blue around the iris and a shadow line across the top, under the eye lid.







Next, we need to decide where the highlight is going to be placed. Wherever there’s a highlight, there's a corresponding refracted light opposite and below it in the iris (if the light direction comes from above) For our example, we’ve decided the highlight will be on the upper right of the eye, just under the eyelid, so we’ll mix a little more white into our second middle blue color and paint a refracted light onto the bottom left of the iris, inside the darker ring. So, the iris is made up of three colors.



Now it's time to paint in the devilish, mischievous pupil. Starting on the eye opposite our dominant hand, we paint in the pupil with black. The size of the pupil can indicate character. A large pupil can denote innocence and openness. A small pupil can indicate a menacing or closed character. Your call. The trick is to get both pupils in the same place in both eyes. If they go a little oval-shaped or end up not exactly where you want them, you can use a little of the middle blue paints to make the correction.



Okay, you’ve got the pupils where you want them. Now it's time for the highlights. You’ve got a couple of ways to do this: You can take a little white paint and use your brush to point it into place on the eye, trying to paint onto both the pupil and the iris, or you can mix up a little light grey, put that in place and then place a dot of white inside the grey, essentially outlining the white highlight with a little light grey ring. It’s a subtle effect, and it works well in some applications.







Let's say your character is looking off to the side. Which side doesn’t matter, just off to the side, maybe pensively or intently. You’ve worked and worked hard to make sure that both irises are perfectly matched, one to the other, and your character still looks a little cross-eyed. What’s the dang deal?! Well, the dang deal is this: If your character is looking off to the right side, the iris of the right eye is placed in the far right corner of that eye. Placing the left iris in the corner of the left eye, jammed up against that left eye's tear duct, will result in that cross-eyed look, even though both irises are evenly matched. Partly, this has to do with the amount of white visible in each eye. The more open part of the eye is from the tear duct side, so the right eye has more white visible from the tear duct to the outside edge of the iris. The left eye's iris has the disadvantage of occupying the more open part of the eye, while the white is over in the narrow corner. You can test this by penciling in both irises, making sure they're evenly spaced. With both eyes showing, the character looks cross-eyed; cover the left eye, and things look fine. By moving the left iris out of the corner a little and creating a little white space between the edge of the iris and the tear duct, the character’s gaze looks right.







With the eye painted, we go back in with the flesh color and paint in the lower lid being careful not to paint onto the white of the eye. Adding a little light brown to our flesh color, we create a shadow tone that we’ll paint above the eye and a little below to add a  bit more drama to the eye.  With the shadow in place, we VERY carefully paint in the top and bottom eyelash line. When painting in a very tight detail, the paint should be just a tad more fluid to aid in paint flow. A slightly dryer paint will result in the paint skipping across the surface as opposed to laying down a smooth, even line.







Next, we’ll create a slightly darker shadow color using a bit more light brown and a hint of black and paint it above the eye and out toward the outside of the eye, blending as we go to create a little more drama. Lastly, we paint in the eyebrow.







To finish the job, we’ll paint in a cheek blush and lip color. Mask-paint in the chrome color, lay in the basic hair color and use dry-brushing and highlights for a sheen effect. Lastly, we’ll satin varnish the hair and add a high gloss varnish to the eyes and lips.  And she’s done!







Next time, we’ll cover the blush, hair, dry brushing, masking and varnishes.



-Excerpt from Pop Sculpture, written by Tim Bruckner, Zach Oat, with Ruben Procopio. Wastonp-Guptill/Random House.

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

10 Things...about Competitions









Greg Manchess



Lots of art competitions coming up again. You can still enter Communication Arts for a small fee per late entry, and there's Spectrum 20...due by January 25th! Again, here's a few thoughts to keep in mind about this frustrating and rewarding endeavor...



1 You have to enter to get in.

It’s surprising how many artists complain about not getting into shows, but haven’t entered them. You read that right: many artists prefer to whine about not getting into shows without having sent any entries in...to any of them. Don’t be that guy. The only way you’ll ever get accepted is to actually enter your work. Yes, it’s scary. Yes, it’s a pain. We all want to get accepted and we build such fear about it. You’re not alone. EVERYONE feels this way. Get in line.



2 Advertising you can’t pay for.

When you do get accepted in a show, it’s the best kind of advertising for your work. It’s so good you couldn’t possibly pay the amount of money it would take to get that kind of response. Competitions instantly put a spotlight on your work. Getting a medal? Priceless advertising.



3 They are fair.

I’ve judged every major competition but one. I have watched and studied the individual processes and I can say without doubt that even though each method is different, all of them are interested in fairness and respect. The process allows judges to see what they need to see, and to think about their decisions. From there, it’s a matter of whether or not your individual piece grabs their attention and causes them to react in your favor. Remember: some people just won’t like what you do. Period.



4 Learn to weather them.

Again, as with other parts of the illustration business, you’ve got to build up a very thick skin. You’ve got to take it as a process of showing off your work and getting better. Loads of us don’t make it in. Professionals and amateurs alike. Let the disappointment be temporary. Take it in stride and continue with your work. It’s not about what’s in vogue. It’s about how you can compel judges to be excited about your work. Any style, any approach, can become popular if you are the expert at it. That expertise will turn heads.



5 Keep trying.

Giving up, giving in to the madness and frustration is easy. It’s exactly why so many don’t enter, and create less competition for those of us that continue to strive for it. There’s a reason why only 2% ever stay with this business. It’s because 98% GIVE UP.



6 Pay attention to what gets in.

But don’t write the experience off to nothing. Pay attention. When you don’t get your work accepted, take time to study why it wasn’t, then start to work smart and study what does make it in to a particular show. Make your very next piece show-worthy for your portfolio.



7 Work smart, show smart.

Now that you’ve researched what’s out there, what’s getting accepted, what’s interesting to judges, you can make a game plan. You can gain attention by following that crowd for a while. Then, as you build interest in your work, you’ll also watch your style, your approach shift and change and become more unique to you. This is how it works. Those are the pieces you now have to judge whether they are up to your new level of skill.



8 Edit your work.

As this happens, you must be able to pick the right pieces that show your particular thinking. YOU must judge first. It can be a slow process, but a richly rewarding one. Don’t be distracted by the artists that get instant attention. They’re in store for a different kind of wall down the road. At some point, we are ALL forced to persevere.



9 Stay positive.

Hey...it’s ok to whine and complain a little. Just do it with your close friends and make damn sure you cut your complaining off before you get to that point. You know the one. The point at which you start hating the process, the people, the business, and start seeing the world as out for your demise. It’s not true, and never has been.



10 It’s difficult.

Gaining attention for your work so that you can get the kind of jobs and so-called glory that you want, crave, hunger for has never, ever, EVER been easy. Those that say it is don’t understand life on Planet Earth. Some of my first pieces got accepted into the Society of Illustrators. Bang, bang, bang. Then....8 year dry spell. But I kept entering, kept paying, kept striving, changing, evolving, growing, and finally breaking through into what had become my way. That’s when people recognized my work.



This process has never been different, and never will.



ps....I didn’t get anything into the Society show this year. Talk about irritating. But one of the rejected pieces managed to get a gold medal at the Society of Illustrators of LA. Different judges, different day. Go figure. (This piece:  http://muddycolors.blogspot.com/2012/05/dress-your-marines-in-white.html )






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